First Week Back Restaurant Review

At just over one week back in town, we've now returned to some of our favorite haunts, and I'm happy to report that there have been few changes. A few places that didn't offer lunch now do, a good thing, though an indication of a slowing economy. Prices in euros haven't changed much, but even a small change plus the deterioration in the dollar has made everything seem expensive.

Dining at Mitch (26 Rue des Tanneurs, telephone 04 42 26 63 08), reminded me why I called it one of the best contemporary restaurants in Aix (http://sixweeksinprovence.blogspot.com/2007/08/best-contemporary-restaurants-in-aix-en.html) and it remains a prime people watching spot that combines well-presented food, comfortable seating, and friendly service. The 25 Euro meal that combines appetizer, main course, and dessert almost merits bargain status. I had to have the foie gras, which was excellent, and beautifully presented, and the lamb, which was long strips bound in string, perfectly cooked, so I had the more expensive menu (45 Euro) which may not have been a bargain but was worth it.

This is somewhat in contrast to La Bouddoir right across the street from Mitch. Dinner there was a disappointment, with lackluster service and mediocre food. Oh well. I found the attitude of our waitperson to be quite amusing. She just oozed attitude, which perhaps she thought she could get away with because she was quite attractive. When I pointed out that my rather tough steak was still cold in the middle ("bleu" or very rare, rather than "saignant," rare tending toward medium rare), she whisked it away without a word and brought it back five minutes later again without a word. I smiled, said "merci" in my atrocious accent, but if anything, the angle of her nose climbed another five degrees.

If the steak hadn't been tough, if the accompaniments, while abundant, had been tastier, if the whole experience for four people (two of whom were 6 and 8 years old and shared one order of pasta) with just two drinks and a half bottle of inexpensive wine wasn't almost $200, her attitude might have worked.

Edykos (in the Place des Tanneurs), Armenian and Greek food, was just like last year. This is a good thing. The same friendly waitstaff, the same menu, good prices, and enjoyable food. Recommended.

Restaurant 37, another of my "best contemporary restaurants" choices, was also just like we remembered it, though with a different menu. A carpaccio of scallops, salmon, and sea urchin came artfully presented, and the dorade (a white fish) was flakey and tender. I suspect the prices didn't change since last year, so any sticker shock was caused by the dollar's change ...

I'll cover Chez Grand Mere in a separate post, but just note here that it remains the place I'd suggest if you had only one night in Aix and want to eat "en terrasse" (outside) and have great traditional food.