The dollar hit a new low relative to the euro yesterday: it now costs $1.60 to buy one euro, and it is impossible not to be aware of that. It isn't a surprise why we don't see any other Americans here.
I thought it might be interesting to break down how we spent $123.00 on a modest lunch:
We decided to go to a new restaurant with an interior terrace that we had noticed while walking around: "Laurane et Sa Maison" (16 rue Victor Leydey, 04 42 93 02 03). We showed up at 12:50 pm, so were the first ones there. A modest place with a pleasant enclosed courtyard decorated in part with little blackboards each saying "hello" in a different language.
We sat down, were handed menus, and were asked what we wanted to drink. They didn't have Orangina (Nicki's favorite) or syrups (Ari's typical choice -- like an Italian soda) but they had quite a selection of juices. So we ordered one for each girl: 4 euros each, or almost $13. Stri and I ordered a bottle of Pelligrino: 4.6 euro, or $7.30.
The girls weren't hungry -- they'd made and eaten crepes as part of their morning activity at the children's bookstore up the street -- so we asked for a dish of pasta to be split between them. For that, they charged just 5 euro each, or $16.
There were two lunch prices, each with various choices, and a few stand alone salads. Stri and I ordered the more modest lunch, both choosing the chicken, for 18 euro each, or almost $27 per person. We had half a bottle of wine, an inexpensive Rose, for 11.50 euro or $17.50, and ordered one dessert, which they didn't charge us for. Then two very small coffees ('noisettes' -- one shot of espresso and a tiny bit of milk) for two euro or $3.20 each.
We got the bill, 74.10 euro, or $117.80, plus we left three euros on the table. Total: 77.10 euro, or $123. And the girls split a bowl of pasta! I'm not trying to pick on the restaurant: Laurane et Sa Maison was pleasant and priced very similarly to other restaurants. By the time we left, the restaurant was pretty full of mainly locals. This is more an illustration of the impact of an unfavorable exchange rate.
Wednesday, July 16, 2008
Monday, July 14, 2008
First Week Back Restaurant Review
At just over one week back in town, we've now returned to some of our favorite haunts, and I'm happy to report that there have been few changes. A few places that didn't offer lunch now do, a good thing, though an indication of a slowing economy. Prices in euros haven't changed much, but even a small change plus the deterioration in the dollar has made everything seem expensive.
Dining at Mitch (26 Rue des Tanneurs, telephone 04 42 26 63 08), reminded me why I called it one of the best contemporary restaurants in Aix (http://sixweeksinprovence.blogspot.com/2007/08/best-contemporary-restaurants-in-aix-en.html) and it remains a prime people watching spot that combines well-presented food, comfortable seating, and friendly service. The 25 Euro meal that combines appetizer, main course, and dessert almost merits bargain status. I had to have the foie gras, which was excellent, and beautifully presented, and the lamb, which was long strips bound in string, perfectly cooked, so I had the more expensive menu (45 Euro) which may not have been a bargain but was worth it.
This is somewhat in contrast to La Bouddoir right across the street from Mitch. Dinner there was a disappointment, with lackluster service and mediocre food. Oh well. I found the attitude of our waitperson to be quite amusing. She just oozed attitude, which perhaps she thought she could get away with because she was quite attractive. When I pointed out that my rather tough steak was still cold in the middle ("bleu" or very rare, rather than "saignant," rare tending toward medium rare), she whisked it away without a word and brought it back five minutes later again without a word. I smiled, said "merci" in my atrocious accent, but if anything, the angle of her nose climbed another five degrees.
If the steak hadn't been tough, if the accompaniments, while abundant, had been tastier, if the whole experience for four people (two of whom were 6 and 8 years old and shared one order of pasta) with just two drinks and a half bottle of inexpensive wine wasn't almost $200, her attitude might have worked.
Edykos (in the Place des Tanneurs), Armenian and Greek food, was just like last year. This is a good thing. The same friendly waitstaff, the same menu, good prices, and enjoyable food. Recommended.
Restaurant 37, another of my "best contemporary restaurants" choices, was also just like we remembered it, though with a different menu. A carpaccio of scallops, salmon, and sea urchin came artfully presented, and the dorade (a white fish) was flakey and tender. I suspect the prices didn't change since last year, so any sticker shock was caused by the dollar's change ...
I'll cover Chez Grand Mere in a separate post, but just note here that it remains the place I'd suggest if you had only one night in Aix and want to eat "en terrasse" (outside) and have great traditional food.
Dining at Mitch (26 Rue des Tanneurs, telephone 04 42 26 63 08), reminded me why I called it one of the best contemporary restaurants in Aix (http://sixweeksinprovence.blogspot.com/2007/08/best-contemporary-restaurants-in-aix-en.html) and it remains a prime people watching spot that combines well-presented food, comfortable seating, and friendly service. The 25 Euro meal that combines appetizer, main course, and dessert almost merits bargain status. I had to have the foie gras, which was excellent, and beautifully presented, and the lamb, which was long strips bound in string, perfectly cooked, so I had the more expensive menu (45 Euro) which may not have been a bargain but was worth it.
This is somewhat in contrast to La Bouddoir right across the street from Mitch. Dinner there was a disappointment, with lackluster service and mediocre food. Oh well. I found the attitude of our waitperson to be quite amusing. She just oozed attitude, which perhaps she thought she could get away with because she was quite attractive. When I pointed out that my rather tough steak was still cold in the middle ("bleu" or very rare, rather than "saignant," rare tending toward medium rare), she whisked it away without a word and brought it back five minutes later again without a word. I smiled, said "merci" in my atrocious accent, but if anything, the angle of her nose climbed another five degrees.
If the steak hadn't been tough, if the accompaniments, while abundant, had been tastier, if the whole experience for four people (two of whom were 6 and 8 years old and shared one order of pasta) with just two drinks and a half bottle of inexpensive wine wasn't almost $200, her attitude might have worked.
Edykos (in the Place des Tanneurs), Armenian and Greek food, was just like last year. This is a good thing. The same friendly waitstaff, the same menu, good prices, and enjoyable food. Recommended.
Restaurant 37, another of my "best contemporary restaurants" choices, was also just like we remembered it, though with a different menu. A carpaccio of scallops, salmon, and sea urchin came artfully presented, and the dorade (a white fish) was flakey and tender. I suspect the prices didn't change since last year, so any sticker shock was caused by the dollar's change ...
I'll cover Chez Grand Mere in a separate post, but just note here that it remains the place I'd suggest if you had only one night in Aix and want to eat "en terrasse" (outside) and have great traditional food.
Lunch on Cours Mirabeau: Cafe Terminus
Cours Mirabeau is considered one of the most beautiful streets in France and therefore anywhere. It's true; wide sidewalks, beautiful trees, classic buildings, a series of fountains, little (and often no) traffic, with La Rotunde, a magnificent fountain at one end, make the "no trip to Aix is complete without seeing ..." cliche apply to a stroll down Cours Mirabeau.
However, the cafés on Cours Mirabeau are too touristy to be worth visiting, except for Les Deux Garcons, the storied hangout of Cezanne and others, and then only for coffee. (Les Deux Garcons, 53 Cours Mirabeau, 04 42 26 00 51) That way you can say you've been there, waiting only for your relatives from some flyover state to extol the overpriced food and abyssmal service.
If you're going to eat on Cours Mirabeau, go to the very end opposite La Rotunde and eat at Cafe Terminus (Cafe Terminus, 58 Course Mirabeau, 04 42 27 69 25) which is just far enough from the hubbub to be authentique. You'll find an interesting mix of tourists, shoppers, and locals eating typical brasserie food. The salads are quite good, and the girls were glad that pizza was available. Recommended.
However, the cafés on Cours Mirabeau are too touristy to be worth visiting, except for Les Deux Garcons, the storied hangout of Cezanne and others, and then only for coffee. (Les Deux Garcons, 53 Cours Mirabeau, 04 42 26 00 51) That way you can say you've been there, waiting only for your relatives from some flyover state to extol the overpriced food and abyssmal service.
If you're going to eat on Cours Mirabeau, go to the very end opposite La Rotunde and eat at Cafe Terminus (Cafe Terminus, 58 Course Mirabeau, 04 42 27 69 25) which is just far enough from the hubbub to be authentique. You'll find an interesting mix of tourists, shoppers, and locals eating typical brasserie food. The salads are quite good, and the girls were glad that pizza was available. Recommended.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Children's sculpting class at Musée Granet
Last year, we didn't find out until too late that there is a children's sculpting class at Musée Granet (http://www.museegranet-aixenprovence.fr) so this year, we made arrangements while still in the U.S. by calling them at +33 (0)4 42 52 87 97. The people who answer the phone speak English. From 9:30 until noon, with two instructors for about 15 children, for only 5 euro per child per day. Our girls loved it and want to go back all week. This must count as one of the biggest bargains in quality instruction and child care in the area.
Chez Mathé
On our first full day back, we returned to Chez Mathé at 14 Rue Felibre Gault (tel. 04 42 27 35 27) for lunch. The interior no longer smells like fresh paint and a few additional decorations make it even more comfortable. Mathé is just as charming as ever, and remembered our girls, now 6 and 8, but she is running the front of the house by herself, so the service was a bit rushed and uneven as she juggled too many tables. But the food remained high quality and reasonably priced; my lamb was cooked beautifully, my wife's salmon and avocado salad was fresh and generously proportioned, and the children enjoyed their food as well. Recommended.
Back in Aix in 2008
We arrived back in the same apartment on Rue D'Entrecasteux for a stay through the end of July, so I'll update our restaurant reviews and check out some new ones. I just got a bike today, a very nice 'course' or road bike for a what-couldn't-be-called-a-bargain price of 160 Euro for three weeks. More soon!
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