We had such a great time in Cassis that I didn't update my blog. I looked up a note I wrote about it for a friend and thought I'd post it. This is from 2009:
We had a wonderful trip in Cassis. We made it back to Aix a couple of times, too. In Cassis, I rented a kayak and paddled out to the Calanques, which I enjoyed so much I did it again and again. They have double kayaks and it would have been great persuading my wife to take another kayak and our two girls, but I couldn't convince her to do so, even though it would have been just fine. (If that is of interest to you, the kayak rental place is on the left side of Cassis' main beach as you are facing the water.)
Our favorite Cassis restaurant with no view was "Restaurant Le Chaudron" at 4 Rue Adolphe Thiers. Not too expensive, but not a bargain, either. Still, we liked it better than Fleurs de Thym, which is a lot more expensive. What was a bargain, great food reasonably priced is Restaurant Le Bonaparte at 14 Rue Gen Bonaparte (04 42 01 80 84). I learned to get the fish soup everywhere, which is really wonderful all over Cassis. They serve it with little toasts on which you put the accompanying saffron spread and either put them in your bowl before the soup goes in or dunk them in. The waterfront restaurants are more expensive and crowded. The only one to go to is Chez Gilbert at 19 Quai des Baux (04 42 01 28 14) which is actually quite good.
For a special dinner, Hotel Restaurant Les Roches Blanches is great. Out around the right, past the smaller beach, it is at 9 Avenue Des Calanques (04 42 01 09 30). Amazing view and superb food.
My girls loved the little white train in Cassis, which goes from the square not far from the kayak place. One of the excursion boats is fun to see the calanques (the limestone fjords) if kayaking is too, er, adventurous. I don't think any is much better than the other, but our experience is limited.
I enjoyed driving up to the cliffs on Le Route des Cretes (though La Ciotat is a waste of time) and over. Incredible views.